FALL-PLANTED ARCHIVES – For customer tips and raves, the stories behind the bulbs, links and books, history, news, and more, see our Diverse Fall-Planted Newsletter Archives.

CUT FLOWERS – For tips for longer lasting bouquets with alliums, freesia, snowdrops, and more, see our Bulbs as Cut Flowers page.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS – Most of our Diverse Others are easy to grow, but their needs, of course, are diverse. To help you choose wisely for your garden, here’s our best advice (in alphabetical order by genus) for their planting and care.

Allium, GERMAN and PURPLE-HEADED GARLIC – Choose a sunny site with well-drained soil, though alliums are adaptable to most soils except heavy clay. Plant with tip up, about 3” deep and 4-5” apart (or closer for a lush look sooner). Scratch a bit of bulb fertilizer into the soil surface after planting (slow-release 10-10-10 is ideal) and water well.

Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time critters bother these relatively animal-resistant bulbs.

Mulch lightly or not at all. Bark mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs to emerge through and their growth will suffer.

When well established, alliums don’t require a lot of water. Water moderately their first spring till they bloom. After that and in following years they’ll do best if you allow them to dry out between waterings.

Chionodoxa, TURKISH GLORY-OF-THE-SNOW – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. These naturally small bulbs can dry out and die if stored too long.

Choose a sunny to partly shaded site with well-drained soil. Turkish glory-of-the-snow is adaptable and will grow happily under deciduous shrubs or trees (even walnuts!) and in turf that’s not too dense. (For best increase, avoid mowing till the foliage turns yellow.)

Plant with tip up, about 3” deep and 3”-4” apart. Scratch a bit of bulb fertilizer into the soil surface after planting – slow-release 10-10-10 is ideal – and water well.

Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time animals bother these animal-resistant bulbs.

Mulch lightly or not at all. Bark mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as glory-of-the-snow and their growth will suffer.

After bloom, allow the foliage to yellow completely to feed the bulbs before removing. For rapid increase, allow flowers to mature and scatter their seeds.

Cyclamen, SOWBREAD CYCLAMEN – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. To thrive, these tubers MUST establish good roots as early as possible.

Choose a lightly shaded site – under high-branched deciduous shrubs or trees often suits cyclamen well, or on the east side of a house – with well-drained soil that’s rich in humus (moisture-retentive organic matter). Make sure it’s a spot where you can see and enjoy these short plants, too!

Space 4-6” apart, leaving room for tubers to expand in future years. C. hederifolium roots from the top and sides, so plant tubers flat and cover with 1-2” of soil. Water well, once, but allow soil to dry out a bit between future waterings. Cyclamen do NOT like soggy soils.

Leaves usually appear the first fall, but depending on your site and weather they may wait till spring. A little protection from bitter cold and wind the first winter can be helpful. Snow is best, but a light sprinkling of straw or an evergreen bough will work, too.

Leaves go dormant in summer. Allow to yellow and wither naturally. Avoid watering while dormant. Top-dress lightly with well-rotted leaves, compost, or other organic matter. Look for first flowers next fall, sometimes before leaves re-appear. In the right spot, cyclamen will self-sow if you allow flowers to mature and scatter their seeds.

Eranthis, WINTER ACONITE – Plant these tiny perishable rhizomes ASAP when you receive them in October. Delayed planting is the most common cause of failure with eranthis.

Choose a sunny (but not hot) or partly shaded site – maybe at the base of deciduous shrubs – with humusy but well-drained soil that never gets bone-dry. Unlike most bulbs, winter aconites need regular moisture year-round. They also prefer neutral or slightly alkaline soil.

Plant with the tiny bumps (the eyes) up, or on their side if you’re not sure, about 2-3 inches deep and 2-3 inches apart. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time pests bother these animal-resistant bulbs. Water well and keep soil moist through fall as new roots grow. Fertilizing is usually not necessary.

Do not mulch. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as eranthis and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

After bloom, allow seedpods to ripen and scatter their seed, and allow the foliage to wither (to feed the rhizomes) before removing. In the right spot, Eranthis will multiply into ever-increasing colonies.

Fritillaria, SNAKE’S-HEAD FRITILLARY – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. Though our snake’s-head bulbs are wax-dipped – which helps a lot – they are naturally small, fragile, tunic-less bulbs that are never happy in storage. If you absolutely have to, store them briefly in their closed bags in the refrigerator (but not the freezer) – and keep your fingers crossed.

Plant 3”-5” deep – some experts say the deeper planting leads to better flowering – and 4”-6” apart in a lightly shaded site with moist, humus-rich soil. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting when they’re most attractive to animals.

Mulch lightly, if at all. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as snake’s-heads and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

Water well, and then assure even moisture in spring and fall. Even in the summer, unlike most bulbs, snake’s-heads don’t want bone-dry soil. Fertilize occasionally. After bloom, allow the seed heads to mature and scatter their seeds. In the right spot snake’s-heads will spread by seeding themselves about rather randomly (and charmingly).

Freesia, ANTIQUE FREESIA – The corms of this species freesia are naturally TINY. Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. By then they have already had a longer-than-usual dormant season, and they are eager to start growing again.

Choose a sunny to lightly shaded site with loose, well-drained, humusy soil. Plant with the broader end down, about 2” deep to the base and about 2” apart (so the wiry plants can support one another). Mulch only lightly, if at all. Water regularly through the growing and blooming season, but reduce watering after that as the seeds mature and the foliage begins to ripen.

After bloom, allow the seed heads to mature and scatter their seeds. Corms are dormant through the summer. Do not water till growth resumes in the fall. Fertilizing is rarely necessary in good soil.

Freesias like dry, Mediterranean-climate summers and are challenging elsewhere. If you’re a skilled, attentive gardener, though, you might like to give them a try in the Southwest, Texas, or Southeast. The Mobile Press-Register’s Bill Finch, for example, reports that they bloom well for him in soggy Mobile where he plants them “just on the edge of the skirts of large, long-legged shrubs” which help to keep them dry in summer.

Galanthus elwesii, GIANT or ELWES SNOWDROP – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. The naturally small bulbs of Galanthus can dry out and die very quickly in storage (Despite modern folklore, however, planting “in the green” is not essential for success).

Choose a lightly shaded site with well-drained or average garden soil that never gets bone-dry in summer. Though G. elwesii can do well alongside the more common G. nivalis, it actually prefers less shade, less moisture, and better drained soil than G. nivalis (as well as warmer temperatures).

Plant 3”-4” deep and 2”-4” apart. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time critters bother these animal-resistant little bulbs. Water well, and then assure even moisture in spring and fall.

Do not mulch. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as snowdrops and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

After bloom, allow seedpods to ripen and scatter their seeds, and allow the foliage to yellow and wither away naturally to feed the bulbs. Fertilizing is rarely necessary. Over time your bulbs will multiply and spread into large colonies.

Galanthus nivalis, TRADITIONAL SNOWDROP – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. The naturally small bulbs of Galanthus can dry out and die very quickly in storage. (However, despite modern folklore, planting “in the green” is not essential for success.)

Choose a lightly shaded site with well-drained or average garden soil that never gets bone-dry or overly hot in summer. Galanthus do best with more moisture than most bulbs, and they can even thrive in clay soil.

Plant 2”-4” deep and 2”-4” apart. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time critters bother these animal-resistant little bulbs. Water well, and then assure even moisture in spring and fall.

Do not mulch. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as snowdrops and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

After bloom, allow seedpods to ripen and scatter their seeds, and allow the foliage to yellow and wither away naturally to feed the bulbs. Fertilizing is rarely necessary. Over time your bulbs will multiply and spread into large colonies.

Gladiolus, BYZANTINE GLAD – Byzantine glads are not fussy, and they do well in a wide range of sites. Ideally, though, choose a sunny to very lightly shaded spot with well-drained soil.

Plant in early to mid-fall, 3”-4” deep and about 6” apart. Water. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time these animal-resistant bulbs are bothered.

Their first winter, a deep, light winter mulch such as straw, oak leaves, pine needles, etc., will help these Southern-grown bulbs adapt to more northerly conditions.

New foliage usually emerges in mid-winter – though in the North this will be delayed well into spring. After blooming in late spring or early summer, the plant will gradually yellow and wither as it goes into dormancy. When you remove the foliage, you may want to mark the spot so you don’t accidentally disturb or plant over them later. With minimal care, Byzantine glads will multiply and increase in beauty every year.

Hyacinthoides hispanica, ‘EXCELSIOR’ SPANISH BLUEBELL – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. Hyacinthoides bulbs are very perishable.

Choose a site in sun to part shade (some shade is best in the South). Though Spanish bluebells prefer rich, moist, woodland soils, they are very adaptable and will thrive in ordinary garden soil. In fact, they’ll grow just about anywhere – and they’re widely animal-resistant! Plant with bases 4”-5” deep and 4”-6” apart from center to center. Water well.

After bloom in late spring, allow seed-heads to ripen and scatter their seeds and allow the foliage to yellow completely to feed the bulbs before removing. Bulbs often multiply rapidly, and within a few years clumps may be dug, divided, and replanted immediately after flowering.

Hyacinthoides make a long-lasting cut flower. Cut or snap off stems rather than pulling them which can damage the bulbs.

Hyacinthoides non-scripta, ENGLISH BLUEBELL – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. Hyacinthoides bulbs are very perishable.

Englishman Roy Genders writes that bluebells are “happiest beneath mature trees where they enjoy partial shade and damp humus-laden soil.” Choose a site accordingly (though the mature trees are not essential). Plant about 3” deep, about 6” apart from center to center. Water well, and assure even moisture from fall through spring.

After bloom in late spring, allow foliage to yellow and seed-heads to ripen and scatter their seeds – unless Spanish bluebells are nearby, in which case you will get mongrel offspring that will eventually crowd out your true English bluebells.

Though challenging to establish outside of mild, English-like climates, in the right spot true English bluebells will multiply happily and may be dug, divided, and replanted right after flowering. They make fragrant, long-lasting cut flowers. Cut or snap off stems rather than pulling them which can damage the bulbs.

Leucojum, ‘GRAVETYE GIANT’ SNOWFLAKE – Choose a site in sun, light shade, or even half-shade in the South. Snowflakes like more moisture than most bulbs, so avoid bone-dry sites. Although most bulbs prefer well-drained soils, snowflakes can do well in clay soils, too. They are also highly animal-resistant.

Plant 4”-6” deep to the base of the bulbs and 4”-6” apart. Scratch a little fertilizer into the soil surface; slow-release 10-10-10 is ideal. Water well as they establish roots in the fall, and assure even moisture through bloom-time.

After bloom, allow the foliage to yellow completely (to feed the bulbs) before removing. With good care snowflakes will multiply, making an increasingly beautiful display every year. When decreased bloom indicates overcrowding, fertilize especially well. If that doesn’t produce more flowers the next spring, dig and divide.

Lycoris radiata, RED SPIDER LILY – Choose a site that’s sunny or – in the South – partially shaded. Red spider lily is highly adaptable but often does best in loose, well-drained, acidic soil.

Plant in the fall so that the neck of the bulb is just an inch or so beneath the surface, or about 5”-6” to the base of the bulb, and about 6” apart from center to center. Scratch a tablespoon of bulb fertilizer into the surface soil; slow-release 10-10-10 is ideal. Water well.

Leaves will emerge the first fall and will need protection over the winter when temperatures dip below 20 F. They will yellow and go dormant next summer.

Flowers will appear the following fall – or even the year after. Please be patient. Though our bulbs are all blooming-size and freshly harvested by our Texas grower, Lycoris always resent transplanting and storage and are naturally slow to re-establish themselves and bloom again. Once settled in, though, they will multiply and increase in beauty year after year.

Lycoris squamigera, SURPRISE or MAGIC LILY – Choose a sunny to lightly shaded site that you can keep relatively dry in summer. Surprise lilies bloom best when given a dry resting period after their foliage withers in early summer. (This may be why they are often seen in low-maintenance lawns – or are they simply the only survivors of earlier flower beds that have been grassed-over?)

Plant so the neck is just below the soil line, or about 5” deep to the base of the bulbs, and about 6” apart center to center. Water well. Their first winter in colder zones, protect with a thick but airy mulch (straw, oak leaves, etc.).

Leaves emerge in the spring, looking like those of giant daffodils. They eventually mature and fade and the plant goes dormant for six to ten weeks before the flowers burst forth in late summer.

Lycoris resent transplanting and are slow to re-establish themselves. Don’t be surprised if they don’t bloom till the second fall after planting. This is common (unless a neighbor has given you a freshly dug shovelfull). We hope you’ll be patient with Mother Nature!

Muscari, GRAPE HYACINTHS – Plant ASAP when you receive them in October. Grape hyacinth bulbs are naturally small and can dry out and die very quickly in storage.

Choose a sunny to lightly shaded site with well-drained soil. Plant about 3” deep, 3”-4” apart. Scratch a tablespoon of bulb fertilizer into the surface soil; slow-release 10-10-10 is ideal. Water well.

Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time pests bother these animal-resistant little bulbs.

Do not mulch. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as grape hyacinths and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

For rapid spread, allow flower-spikes to mature and scatter seed after bloom. In subsequent years, your Muscari may begin to send up leaves in the fall. Don’t be alarmed. Mother Nature has built them tough, and their leaves can survive great cold.

Ornithogalum, SILVER BELLS – Silver bells seem most at home in dryish soil in light shade. In our old neighborhood, they even spread themselves about amid beds of common orange daylilies lining old gravel driveways in the shade of mature trees.

Plant 4”-5” deep and 4”-5” apart. Scratch a bit of fertilizer into the surface soil (slow release 10-10-10 is ideal), and water well. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time pests bother these animal-resistant bulbs.

Do not mulch. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as silver bells and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

For best increase, after bloom allow the seedpods to ripen and scatter their seeds, and allow the foliage to yellow completely (to feed the bulbs) before removing.

Rhodophiala, OXBLOOD LILY – To quote our friend Greg Grant of Texas writing in Country Living Gardener, oxblood lily is “easy and adaptable [and] thrives in any type of soil, with any pH, and any exposure. Moreover, it never needs dividing, never needs extra water, and has no insect pests. Its only two requirements are a dry summer and not removing its foliage before it goes dormant naturally” in late spring.

We’ll just add that it multiplies best in loose, well-drained soil, and its blossoms last longer with light shade. Plant with the base 8-10 inches deep. Water well. Leaves will emerge soon but bulbs won’t bloom till late summer next year (or even later). Fertilize lightly after bloom – and look forward to years of carefree beauty!

Scilla, SIBERIAN SQUILL – These small, handsome bulbs are surprisingly perishable when dormant. Please plant them ASAP when they arrive in October.

Siberian squill naturalizes eagerly, so choose a site where it can spread at will. Full sun is okay, but Siberian squill seems to prefer light shade and will bloom even in fairly deep shade. Ordinary garden soil is fine, as long as it’s not bone-dry, and there’s no need to fertilize.

Plant about 3” deep, about 4” apart (or closer for a lush look sooner). Water well. Consider protecting with plastic netting, chicken-wire, etc., for a few weeks after planting, typically the only time critters bother these animal-resistant little bulbs.

Do not mulch. Mulch is often too thick or heavy for small bulbs such as Siberian squill and their growth will suffer – if they emerge at all.

After the bulbs flower in early spring, allow seed heads to ripen and scatter their seeds and the foliage to yellow to feed the bulbs before removing.

Sternbergia lutea, STERNBERGIA — Plant ASAP when bulbs arrive in October. Since Sternbergia put up leaves in the fall, prompt planting is especially important.

In their native lands, Sternbergia thrive in hot, dry conditions, often growing on rocky slopes. Choose a sunny site for them, preferably with well-drained soil (though we hear they grow fine in clay soil, too).

Plant 3-5 inches deep (shallower the further south you are), and 4-6 inches apart. Water moderately but not heavily throughout the fall, especially their first year. After that — through winter, spring, and early summer — Sternbergia do best when kept fairly dry.

Leaves appear in fall. Flowers may precede them, though you may not see any blooms their first fall as the bulbs re-establish themselves. Foliage is evergreen, so protect it with an airy mulch (straw, etc.) where winters are harsh. Allow it to yellow completely when the bulbs go dormant in late spring to feed the bulbs for future bloom.

Sternbergia do best when left undisturbed, and in the right spot will multiply over time into thick colonies.

To return to the beginning of Fall-Planted Diverse, click here.