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GOLD DUST, 1905        Web-Only & Rarest
Exceptionally early-blooming, this cheery little daylily opens its fragrant, cinnamon-shaded flowers just as spring is turning into summer (and when it’s happy, it often reblooms). It’s also one of the oldest daylilies, by the very first person to breed them, English schoolteacher George Yeld, who crossed the classic lemon lily with the Japanese H. dumortieri to get this enduring charmer. Just 24-26”, very early, dormant, zones 5a-8b(10bWC), from our Ann Arbor micro-farms. Chart & care.
HM-17
1/$7.50
3/$20.50
5/$32.50
10/$60
Limit 10, please.
H. fulva ‘Kwanso’, KWANSO DOUBLE, 1860        Web-Only
With three sets of petals tucked neatly inside one another, this opulent daylily is quirky enough to appeal to Victorian gardeners yet “handsome” enough (to quote taste-maker Louise Beebe Wilder in 1916) to earn it a leading role in the sumptuous Red Borders at England’s famous Hidcote Gardens. 36-40”, early summer blooming, dormant, zones 4a-8b(10bWC), from Missouri. Chart & care.
HM-02
1/$7.50
3/$20.50
5/$32.50
10/$60
25/$135
Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus, LEMON LILY, 1570        Rarest
True stock! Many daylilies are mistakenly called lemon lily, but ours is the true original. For centuries, this and the single orange “ditch lily” were the only daylilies common in gardens. Always the more prized, lemon lily is smaller, much more graceful, and early blooming, with a sweet scent that led one botanist in 1733 to call it the “Yellow Tuberose.” Best in cool climates and moist soils. We ship single fans of this great rarity. Formerly H. flava, 30-34”, dormant, zones 3a-7a(9aWC), from Vermont and Ann Arbor. Chart & care.
HM-03
1/$16.50
3/$45
5/$71
10/$132
Limit 10, please.
LUXURY LACE, 1959        
When we asked the experts, this pastel gem topped the list of heirloom daylilies we just had to offer. Its pale, melon-pink color was an exciting advance for the 1950s, and — enhanced by a cool green throat — it’s still exciting and lovely today. Winner of the Stout Medal, it was bred by Edna Spalding of rural Louisiana who grew her seedlings in the vegetable garden and culled the rejects with a kitchen knife. 32”, mid-summer blooming, dormant, zones 4a-8b(10bWC), from Missouri. Chart & care.
HM-10
1/$7.50
3/$20.50
5/$32.50
10/$60
25/$135
MIKADO, 1929        Rarest
This striking daylily was one of Stout’s first and favorite introductions. Over the years its bold mango-and-mahogany coloring and graceful star-like form have won it many fans, including the great Elizabeth Lawrence who praised it as one of her “15 Best.” Vigorously multiplying and floriferous, it often reblooms in the fall in warm areas. 30-36”, early-mid season, semi-evergreen, zones 4a-8a(10aWC), from our Ann Arbor micro-farms. Chart & care.
HM-28
1/$8.50
3/$23.50
5/$36.50
10/$68
25/$153
ORANGEMAN, 1902        Rarest
We can’t understand why everyone isn’t growing this great little daylily. It blooms remarkably early — with the first bearded iris of May — and profusely, even in the half-shade of our old grape arbor. Its graceful, star-like flowers are a cheery yellow-orange that’s somewhere between mangoes and California poppies. And it’s one of the oldest survivors from the very dawn of daylily breeding, by school teacher George Yeld. 24-30”, dormant, zones 4a-8b(10bWC), from Ann Arbor. Chart & care.
HM-18
1/$8
3/$22
5/$34.50
10/$64
25/$144
SOVEREIGN, 1906        Rarest
Small-flowered, early blooming, and one of the oldest daylilies of all, this cheery little queen is lemon yellow lightly shaded with chestnut on back. It was bred from the wild lemon lily and H. dumortierii by George Yeld, the founding father of daylilies, and it blooms today — as it has for decades — in the restored garden of author Eudora Welty. Yellower and taller than its sibling ‘Gold Dust’, 28-30”, dormant, zones 4a-8a(10aWC), from our Ann Arbor micro-farms. Chart & care.
HM-30
1/$8.50
3/$23.50
5/$36.50
10/$68
25/$153
THERON, 1934        Rarest
This rarely offered, landmark daylily was bred by A.B. Stout, the New York Botanic Garden scientist who unlocked the amazing potential of daylilies, setting them on the road to superstardom. Although Stout introduced 92 remarkable daylilies, he’s said to have been especially proud of ‘Theron’, whose mahogany blooms made it the first “red” daylily. 30”, mid-summer blooming, dormant, zones 4a-8b(10bWC), from Ann Arbor. Chart & care.
HM-12
1/$8
3/$22
5/$34.50
10/$64
25/$144
VESPERS, 1941        Rarest
Unlike most daylilies that wane as night approaches, this pale yellow beauty opens late in the day and then stays fresh and beautiful all evening — when you’re home to enjoy it — and the following day. It was bred by the remarkable Elizabeth Nesmith who hybridized hundreds of daylilies, iris, and other perennials and sold them by mail, in an era when ladies just didn’t do things like that. Often reblooms, 34-38”, early-mid, zones 4a-8a(10aWC), from our Ann Arbor micro-farms. Chart & care.
HM-31
1/$9
3/$24.50
5/$39
10/$72
Limit 10, please.

DAYLILY ARCHIVES — For customer tips and raves, history, news, and more, see our Daylillies Newsletter Archives.

PLANTING & CARE — Plant these bare-root perennials as soon as possible in the spring. They’re eager to grow, can take light frost, and need water and sunlight to stay healthy. If necessary, store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a few days or “heel in” briefly in moist sand or soil in a shady spot.

Daylilies like lots of sun but most bloom well in light shade, too, and often prefer it in the South. Loamy, well-drained soil suits them best, but they’re adaptable and should do fine in any soil that’s not too wet or dry.

Plant 18-24 inches apart (to leave growing room for future years) with the crown (where the foliage meets the roots) no more than one inch below the soil surface. Dig a hole big enough to fit the roots comfortably, mound soil in the center, set the plant on top, and spread the roots out down the sides of the mound. Fill in and firm soil around roots, making sure the crown ends up no more than one inch deep. Water well.

Water regularly, especially the first year and from spring till flowering in future years. First-year plants usually bloom sparsely — if at all — concentrating instead on developing a strong root system. Deadhead (remove) spent blooms daily for a neater look and, to increase bloom the following year, remove any seedpods that may form.

After bloom, normal senescence (aging) may cause foliage to subside, yellow, or turn brown at the tips. If this bothers you, feel free to trim it a bit or even cut the foliage to the ground completely — though not the first year! With good care, fresh new foliage will emerge.

Daylilies are hardy perennials and winter protection is rarely needed. In spring, remove dead foliage, fertilize if indicated by a soil test, and resume watering.

For more information, including tips on the few pests and diseases that occasionally trouble daylilies, see the “Frequently Asked Questions” section of the excellent American Hemerocallis Society website.

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